SAUCY!
It’s hard not to say “saucy” without some affectation, especially since the second definition for it is, “bold and lively,” and includes the synonyms: jaunty, rakish, sporty, and raffish. I suppose the right sauce is rather like a statement hat finishing off a great outfit, that would otherwise be unremarkable.
A favorite warm weather sauce for me has always been salsa, which is Spanish for “sauce,” and bold and lively it is! I’m happy enough to just open a jar in the winter when tomatoes can be a bit anemic and lack character, but making salsa is a distinct summer kitchen pastime for me, and I’ll encourage you to give it a go, if you haven’t already. jump to recipe
Back in my New York days, long about the end of June things really slowed down as just about everyone left to “summer” elsewhere. There was finally more time to prep, and the few parties we did book were usually smaller, and casual. What a great feeling to be in the kitchen, unhurriedly crafting a meal from summer’s bounty. I could actually enjoy making salsa, and the ingredients were in their prime.
I don’t recall what inspired my first batch of mango and roasted corn salsa, but it soon became a non-negotiable component of all my summer soirees. While I am not generally fond of fruit in savory applications, I make an exception for the mango here. I am not alone in my mistrust of fruit on the other side of the tracks, so to speak. The pineapple on pizza debate rages on, but I am squarely on the “against” side, as is Gordon Ramsey, so I’m in good company.
This particular salsa recipe has an incredible alchemy of flavor and color, and as good as it is on a tortilla chip, it’s a divine sauce for anything coming off the grill. Since it is so good on a chip or on your entree, you’ll have to make quite a bit since snacking will certainly happen before dinner.
A key ingredient is the grilled corn, which adds that je nais se quois that only grilled foods impart. That said, I accomplish a single ear of grilled corn via the stovetop, gas flame method. After scorching the ear, I cut the cob in half to give me a flat edge to work from, and then slice off the kernels. You can use the same method for an exceptional pot of corn chowder. (Separate corn wrangling post to follow).
A secret to conventional corn cookery is a little bit of sugar in the water, not salt, which toughens the kernels. The sugar is a negligible amount, just a teaspoon or so, but does make a difference, as does minimizing time in the water. I only simmer mine for 5 minutes, although you may have been taught something else by your mother.
The last secret to perhaps the best salsa, is to include the cilantro stems, chopped finely. The stems have a ton of flavor and are tender at least half way down, if not more. There are those who have a particular gene that causes cilantro to taste like soap or just plain unpalatable. While I often suggest adding cilantro at the table for those guests, in this case I open them a jar of cilantro-free salsa… but you really can’t call it “saucy” by definition.
There is just something about this particular combination of flavors and colors. If you make this in a food processor it will just be mush, so don’t. The recipe calls for an Ataúlfo mango, sometimes referred to as a “champagne” mango, they are more almond shaped and more sultry tasting that the rounder variety. They’re in the markets right now, so even if you don’t make salsa, gather ye mangos while ye may.
Ingredients
- 1 ear corn, shucked
- 3 ripe tomatoes
- 1 small red onion
- 1 clove garlic
- 1 Ataúlfo mango
- ¼ bunch cilantro
- Jalapeno, optional
Instructions
- Using tongs, hold the ear of corn over a medium gas flame on the stove, turning to “roast” evenly. Let cool. Slice off kernels and place in a medium bowl.
- Chop tomatoes, red onion, and garlic as finely as possible, then add to the bowl.
- Peel the mango and chop finely, then add to the bowl.
- Chop the cilantro finely, including top part of the stems, then add to the bowl.
- Finely chop jalapeno, if using, and add to the bowl.
- Add a little salt to the bowl, and using a rubber spatula, fold everything together. Use immediately, or may be kept in the fridge for a few days.
